The Road Ahead ................. (Florida Ride 2013): Twisting The Dragon's Tail

May 27, 2013
Checking out of the Quality Inn ahead of me at Andrews, NC was a Goldwinger who'd ridden the Tail Of The Dragon (also known as U.S. 129) the previous day and several times over the years. He and I, and the long-bearded desk clerk who resembled William Golden of The Oakridge Boys, discussed my pending first-time-visit to The Dragon. I listened with attention to their admonishments and dragon tail tales.

The desk clerk told of a recent conversation he had with a nimrod RV'er he correctly suspected was about to take his super-sized Class A over U.S. 129. Reenacting the conversation with utmost concern, he said he said, '"Sir, you'd better rethink your route. I don't think there's any stretch between curves on 129 that's as long as your RV."' And, as if speaking from experience, the Goldwinger left me with these words of advice. ..... "And DON'T speed on The Dragon .... not unless you want to meet one of those boys with a campaign hat. They were out in force yesterday."

I went to the parking lot and advised the crew (GPS and Harley) what we were facing a mere 38 miles up the road. The Harley flexed his spokes. Said he was ready for the challenge. The GPS on the other-hand feigned dizziness and requested the day off. We compromised. If she'd just get us to the site of the adventure, she could shut her eyes all the way down the mountain. I'd be too focused on the curves to be watching her anyhow. No .... I didn't really have that conversation ... but if I had I imagine it would have gone something like that.

Soon, we were eastbound into the morning sun of a perfect day; clear, calm and splendorous as we went higher and deeper into the mountains. So far, the only setback was a missed turn and subsequent chastisement from the GPS. It wasn't easy turning around, mainly because there were no shoulders and too many curves, making u-turns hazardous, not to mention illegal. Had to travel a ways to turn around, all the while listening to "I told you so" from you know who. Actually, I should clarify right here that I muted the GPS over two years ago, soon after acquiring her and her irritating voice. But even though ours is a visual exchange only, she still gets her digs in by silently screaming ..... RECALCULATING .... all over the map.

The closer we got to Deal's Gap the more I doubted its existence. And, it's a good thing I didn't seek lodging at Tapoco, the last town on the map, because there appeared to be nothing there either. Then, suddenly, around a curve, in the middle of the forest ........... Deals Gap ........ and a collection of motorcycles that would rival Sturgis .... well, maybe not .... but there were a lot of them .... mounted, dismounted, leaving and arriving. I walked among the bikes and their riders, camera in hand, capturing images of the cool, the uncool and the undecided.

Deals Gap is obviously all about motorcycles. Signs confirm it: "Motorcycle Resort" "Motorcycle Parking Only". Beyond the store that sells slogan-bearing caps and shirts, is a long, one-story building with multiple doors ..... a motorcycle motel. By the looks of the crowd it was booked and I imagine there was one raucous party in The Gap last night. As a member of the "uncool" group, I'm thankful for not having been a part of it. That doesn't mean, however, I shouldn't have some souvenir by which to remember the experience. So I entered the store for a look around.

I was a little leery of getting a souvenir before slaying The Dragon, especially any thing declaring "I survived The Dragon". I had yet to qualify for that status. Could be a bad omen if I got a souvenir first. But, for all I knew, this was my only chance. I wouldn't be coming back this way. I settled on a ball cap and long-sleeved T-Shirt embossed with description and mapping of the route.

In the middle of the compound stood "The Tree of Shame", its disastrous dangling of motorcycle parts and rider paraphernalia a somber reminder of those who have most likely left skin and pride on the periphery of the dragon's tail in a spectacular "watch this" moment. On the other hand, they could have just been plain unlucky.

I killed close to an hour in the parking lot watching the action and perusing the wide variety of motorcycles. Lots of beautiful machinery to behold. Eventually, it was time to face The Dragon.

As promised the GPS took some time off. I don't even remember her telling me the elevation. I looked later and see the highest point on The Dragon is 1962 feet. I would have guessed higher, at least 3,000 feet. It's hard to imagine these mountains are lower in elevation than the flat plains out west. They certainly look bigger.

I fell in behind a small group of Harleys and off we went to slay the legendary dragon. I hadn't thought about the state line since the previous day when I wondered what state Deals Gap was in. I learned it's in North Carolina, for two miles up the road we entered Tennessee ..... where lives The Dragon I presume.

The hype surrounding The Dragon's curves is just that. The ride isn't as treacherous as described, providing one stays close to the 30 mph speed limit. Even the GPS opened her eyes after the first couple of miles. But make no mistake, the road certainly commands respect and full attention needs to be paid to each and every curve lest you end up dangling from the Tree of Shame or worse. Naturally, for the foot-peg-dragging daredevils, the experience is at a whole different level.

Not knowing exactly what to expect, I wasn't as relaxed as I would be if I knew the road well. Nevertheless, it was fun and exhilarating swinging through the curves down the Tennessee mountainside. If I lived here I'd do it often, as I'm sure many of today's riders have and will again. I'd like to try it sometime without all my luggage on the back.

As shown in the video below, the road levels, straightens,and parallels Chilhowee Lake before the Tail of The Dragon officially ends at the Harley Davidson souvenir shop at Tallassee. I stopped to check it out. This time I picked out a silver "dragon" necklace and earrings for Sherry, which of course won't hold much significance for her, never having been to see The Dragon.

Arriving In Deals Gap, NC

Deals Gap Motorcycle Resort


Dangling Parts On The "Tree Of Shame"

Curves On The Dragon

Stationed at various curves are photographers
working beside banners advertising something like
"See Your Photos At killboy.com" , no doubt a lucrative business.
At least they sold these photos to me for $3.50 each.