Key West

May 12, 2013

I made the 127 mile ride to Key West from Florida City where I stayed after leaving Everglades City. I could have made the 211 mile distance easily in one day but wanted a fresh start and a short travel day so as to arrive sufficiently rested. I needed to make the most of the day for it's all I can afford in order to check Key West off my "been there, done that list" (not to be confused with a bucket list). I actually wasn't there long enough for the "done that" part but at least I can say I've been there. It is important to note that my trip meter, set at zero when leaving home, now reads 4875 miles.

I've talked to a few people who've driven the Overseas Highway so I knew what not to expect and that is my previous imagining of a bridge stretching 100 miles and a view of nothing but ocean as far as the eye can see in every direction. It's like any highway, going through towns and across bridges connecting the various islands (keys) that I've already forgotten the names of. The traffic is fairly thick and the speed seldom gets 55 or above. Above all, it was a pleasant and mostly scenic ride. A little windy in spots but not bad.

Key West certainly didn't strike me as a tropical paradise when I first rolled into town. I veered right, around recognizable motels like Best Western and Quality Inn, zig-zagging through orange barrels marking nearly 2 miles of road construction. Those motels offer a view of chainlink fencing and chunks of dug up concrete that restrict access in an out of their driveways. .... not a desirable option for spending your touristic dollar.

Eventually I entered the old section of town, which is a century apart and does indeed spark the touristic instinct to browse and ponder. First, I'd have to navigate through the wandering pedestrians, find a parking spot and check the availability of lodging, preferably within walking distance of the browse-worthy places.

Navigating the crowded back streets wasn't an easy task and downright miserable being helmetized in the intense heat. In short, I was dying. These desperate conditions and the sudden, undoubtedly rare availability of lodging at my fingertips, led to me to let loose of many, many more of those tourist dollars than I would in a refreshed state of mind.

Obviously mistaking me for a person who easily affords such prices, the gleeful manager of the  Cypress House   perhaps expected reciprocal giddiness when he offered me his grand bargain ..... $159 for a normally $190 room. Actually, in my humidity-fogged mind it did sound pretty good. Just lead me to it and let me bask in it's air conditioning, I thought as I pulled out my thread-bare credit card.

As a bonus, the manager said I could park my bike off the street in the gravel walkway between the historic buildings that make up the Cypress House on Caroline Street. Street parking can be hazardous to your vehicle, he said, given that the drunks from Duval Street a block away sometimes careen through here, ricocheting off whatever's parked at the curb.  As it should be, the large room and bathroom were impeccable and included every modern convenience merged into the 1888 structure.

Soon refreshed, camera in hand, I hit the streets to mingle with the tattooed, body-pierced and dreadlock-wearing horde of fellow tourists. Apart from a few cellphone photographers who take their shots on the run, I quickly realized this crowd had little interest in capturing the moment, just living it. Obviously, my picture-pondering photography was a real impediment and required defensive action on my part.

Remember the old cowboy movies, when a cowboy would fall from his horse in the middle of a buffalo stampede? To survive he'd hunker down under a log (which was always available). The herd would swerve around or jump over the log, thereby allowing the cowboy to survive. I adopted that same method of survival on Duval Street. Instead of a log I'd back up against a light pole, a mailbox and sometimes even a fire hydrant. It works.

I wandered and pondered for the rest of the afternoon. Even went into a gift shop and bought Sherry some shiny trinkets before returning to the air-conditioned bliss of my room, resting up before my attempt to capture a Key West Sunset.

The friendly Cypress House manager had given me what he inferred was secret advice on the best place to get a sunset picture. First he described the place "not to go" and that is down at the plaza by the docks where a huge celebration takes place  every evening before and after sunset. It's a real circus. They even have sidewalk performances. To avoid that he suggested the roof of the LaConcha Hotel.

As a preparatory tactic I'd checked out the LaConcha during my time on the streets. Entering through the plush lobby I was immediately contacted by a tuxedoed bellboy who correctly evaluated me as a financial inferior and asked "can I help you" ..... which is the catch phrase used by all proprietors and really means "what's your reason for being here?"  No, it didn't really happen like that. I just expected it. Actually, the bellboy was nice and helpful pointing the way to the elevator for a ride to the top deck.

The elevator came out into a bar surrounded by large, picturesque windows offering a view over Key West.  It would be a nicer view at sunset. The place was conveniently customerless at the moment so I thought it appropriate to sit and sip a $9 Pina Colada. (I learned the price as I was taking my first sip.) I laughed when the bartender asked me if I wanted another. I said I'd have to call it dinner if I did. He countered with, "A lot of people in Key West do call it dinner."

Speaking of dinner, I stopped at a sidewalk cafe on the return to my room and had a $12 salad with bread and water.

Once again I gathered my camera gear, tripod included, and walked the shaded and crowd-free Carloine Street, a backway to the LaConcha Hotel on Duval. I took the elevator to the top, walked through the bar, stepped onto the "roof deck" and realized I was late to the party. The place was swarming with celebrators, some celebrating more than others. Luckily there was one opening left at the railing and I wedged a tripod leg into it to await sunset.

I warmed up with a few shots of the city and then a series of photos as the light changed and changed and changed, the finale being the use of my 300 mm to reveal the sun as a big orange globe veiled by purple haze, topped off with a sailboat on the water. It doesn't get any better than that.

The crowd began to dissipate as the last sliver of orange melted on the horizon. But I wasn't ready to leave just yet. I wanted to drink in the ambiance and that second Pina Colada. No, it doesn't make financial sense, but neither does this entire trip. A window to the outside deck made it handy to order.

The bartender apologized for being "out of" Pina Coladas and suggested a Banana Daiquiri. I said make it strawberry and you've got a deal. Yep. $9.

I no more than took a comfortable seat at the rail and a sip or two of the delicious, icy beverage when "Al" showed up. The one-sided conversation starter was my camera, on the table in front of me. Al (who introduced himself later) said he was thinking about getting a digital SLR but can't because he's married and his wife won't let him and he has been installing MRI machines in hospitals for 22 years, is from Louisville, Kentucky and went to MRI training in Orange Country, California and how he'd never live there, too crowded; Louisville is much smaller, only two million and Jim Beam is buried in Bardstown, Kentucky and he (not Jim Beam) is in Key West to celebrate his 60th birthday and he drinks a lot, which is why he rented a bicycle and it's tied up down below but it doesn't have a light on it and his wife "texted" him and told him to be careful and what he meant by careful is not necessarily for his safety but not to get caught riding without a light on the bike because where they rented it they were told it was a $100 fine if you ride at night without a light. ....... He said a lot more but I can't remember. My daiquiri and tranquility were gone before Al was.

May 13, 2013
I woke early, made notes for the blog and was to the breakfast area early so as not to miss out on whatever it was. Outside seating in a garden courtyard in the cool humid morning. Very nice. I took my time, sipping coffee and reflecting on the my short visit to Key West before enjoying some breakfast burritos and orange juice.

I remembered "Al" trying to give directions to the Ernest Hemingway house, saying there's a $20 fee to tour it. I didn't want to do that but figured I'd at least do a driveby and take a picture of the outside.

According to Al, I go that way on Duval Street to the street that turns into the highway off the island but I don't go that way. No, I go toward the old military fort and it's not the first street but the next one and the house is on that street.

I did all that and in fact found the house. That's the good news. The bad news is that the yard was so overgrown with vegetation you can barely see a house. Besides, there was no place to park and the street is too narrow for even a motorcycle to stop and allow traffic (piling up behind me) to get by ... not to mention the swarm of people already forming. And, for whatever reason, my video camera was off at that particular moment.

So, even though I can say I've been there, I've not done that and have no evidence I even glimpsed a portion of the house where the famous Ernest Hemingway lived. But I can live with that. Key West was soon a fading memory in my rear view mirror.

 

12-Minute Video Of My Ride To Key West



Everglades City To Key West (211 Miles)

Cypress House On Caroline Street

Off Street Parking

My Room

Life On Duval Street

Lots Of These Upgraded Rickshaws In Key West



Tattoos

Hat Maker

Artistic Weaving

Taxi Texter

Key Lime Pie Factory



Before

After

Navigating Duval Street

Off The Beaten Path Is This Cruise Ship Called
Jewel Of The Seas

My First Trip To The Top Of The LaConcha Hotel
No People

Overlooking Key West To The North

Overlooking Key West To The Southwest.
The Cruise Ship Is The Same Previously Pictured.



St Mary's Catholic Church



When I Returned The Place Was Packed

Sunset Watchers

Key West Sunset

Zooming In On The Sunset

Purple Haze



Cloud Sinking Sun

Only A Sliver Left



After Sunset On Duval Street

Curry Mansion Inn Is A Block From Cypress House

Back Home At Cypress House