I took advantage of my two-day booking at the North Country Inn in Mandan and slept in. Had breakfast and spent too much time working on my blog, videos and pictures before finally getting back to Fort Lincoln where I paid another $5 entry fee plus a dollar extra for a guided tour of the Custer House. The next tour didn't start for a good while so I spent that time at the museum educating myself on the fort's history.
To ensure the safety of workers building the Northern Pacific Railroad to Montana, the U.S. Army, in June 1872, established an infantry post (Fort McKeen) on a hill overlooking the Missouri River. In November that year it was renamed Fort Abraham Lincoln and expanded to include a cavalry post below, which was in full operation in 1873 and under the command of LT Col George Armstrong Custer who, with his wife, Elizabeth (known as Libby), moved into their new home at the fort. It burnt down the following year. A second home, with enhancements insisted on by the flamboyant Custer, was built soon afterward.
Custer and his 7th Cavalry departed the fort May 17, 1876 on a campaign against the Sioux and Cheyenne Indians. It didn't go well. They never returned.
PICTURES (2009 visit to the Little Bighorn Battlefield)
The railroad to Montana was completed in 1883 and by 1891 Fort Lincoln had been abandoned by the army. The resources had been moved closer to where needed. It is said local townspeople were responsible for dismantling the buildings, including the Custer house, using the lumber for their own building purposes. Fort Abraham Lincoln was no more.
The land became a state park in 1907 but it wasn't until 1934 that refurbishing efforts began with the building of a visitor center by the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps) and the locations of original buildings being marked with brick cornerstones. They built roads and shelters but, apart from Blockhouses at the infantry post, it would be 1989 before the first building was reconstructed. The Custer House was built on the same spot as the original, using the same blueprints. Other buildings were reconstructed in the 1990's, which include Enlisted Mens Barracks, Commissary and Store House.
Only three other people besides me showed up for the next tour of Custer House. Our guide was a nervous young man who struggled to remember his lines as he led us through the home. It is furnished with period pieces but only a few of which actually belonged to Custer and his wife. Though I had a couple of questions, they were post-1875 and we'd been instructed none could be asked except questions with answers known in 1875 or before. Questions with modern day answers could be asked when we were back outside the house. I could see where that "game" might be relevant when kids are present but there were only 4 of us and we're all adults with fading memories. Consequently, I forgot to ask the questions when we got outside and even now can't remember what they were. I guess it was an okay tour for the one-dollar fee.
I meandered over to the Commissary, which is a code name for souvenir shop and snack bar. I browsed the Chinese-made merchandise, none of which made me want to reach for my wallet. A period-costumed-soldier with sergeant stripes approached and asked me if I was waiting for a tour of the Custer House. He was an older fellow with a confident stance who held his tin cup of coffee like those "lifers" I knew in the Navy -- old salts they're called. I suspect I missed out by not having him as a guide instead of the stuttering rookie.
"Just had one," I told him, then asked if there was anything to see over at the soldier barracks.
"Heading over there right now, to close up. I'll show you around. Walk with me." He gave me the choice of using the right-angled boardwalk or following him in an exercise of logic by taking the shortcut across the parade grounds. By the time we got to the barracks I'd learned more from him than during the entire previous tour. Sgt Al Johnson has been a tour guide at the park for 19 years. In real life he teaches sociology at the local high school.
After a quick and informative tour of the barracks and adjacent "mess hall", I finally mentioned that I met a man the previous evening who said to say "hi" to "Uncle Al." I had to add that I knew an Al Johnson back home who was also a sergeant ... at the local police department.
The sergeant laughed at the coincidence and in recognition of the man from the previous evening and said, "he's an Arikara" and direct descendant of one of Custer's scouts but couldn't remember which one.
As we walked back across the parade grounds Sgt Johnson encouraged me to visit the infantry post on top of the hill, then stopped us in our tracks to salute the lowering of the flag by another soldier. I took some pictures of them folding the flag then rode to the infantry post.
Three of the four blockhouses (fortified buildings from which to ward off Indian attacks) marking the corners of the post had been reconstructed. I climbed to the top of one for a birds-eye view of the area then went for a picture-taking, sign-reading walk on the all the pathways. By then the sky had developed a threatening look causing me to think if I didn't want to swim back to Mandan I'd better head back "now". ............... (it never did rain).
Click for PICTURES
 |
| Sgt Al Johnson |
Below is a slideshow video covering my two-day visit to Fort Abraham Lincoln
 |
| Fort Abraham Lincoln Location |
No comments:
Post a Comment